Sunday, October 4, 2009

Post-modern meets retro-revival, and does a little dance?

I daresay I should preface the events that follow by explaining that Paris has a big event, called a Nuit Blanche (an all-nighter, if you will). Lots of businesses stay open late, and there are art installations and performances that stay open until 7am. It was packed. I didn't stay long, because after what had transpired at the Luxembourg Gardens, my mind was blown and I needed to recover!

On my way over to the Luxembourg gardens, where the event I wanted to see was set up, I took the métro from Saint-Germain des Prés, which you see here. This is a few blocks down Bd. Saint Germain, which is the main boulevard close to me. I take the métro from here all the time, it's very convenient. More on this area later on.



This is the Sorbonne. I walked up Bd. Saint Michel (where I used to live) to get to the gardens. That is actually the Grand Amphithéâtre where I had/will have orchestra concerts (if memory serves).



Evidently I lack skill, because these were supposed to be at the end, but I thought this was possibly the best bookstore name I've ever seen. It's a spoof on Mona Lisa and a form of the verb lire, which is "to read."



Got pot[s]? Hahaha this is a restaurant that I always liked near the Place Saint Michel, on Rue Danton, which connects the Place Saint Michel back to Odéon and Bd. Saint Germain.



I figured perhaps there have been too many pictures of inanimate objects, so I myspaced it up for this one ... and did pretty well, I must say. You can see the boule à facettes (disco ball) AND on the left side of my face right about ear level is the Eiffel tower! I'm just that good :)

I suppose now is as good a point in my non-chronological pictures to explain as any. This particular installation was billed as the artist's effort to bring a starry night sky to the city, since in cities you can't usually see the stars. What I didn't realize from the information I had read was that they were going to string up an ENORMOUS (the brochure says it's the largest in the world, and I can't imagine they're wrong) disco ball, ON A CRANE, in the middle of the Luxembourg gardens ... which, incidentally, houses the Palais du Luxembourg, which is their Senate. They had DCA projector lights strategically placed all around to illuminate it, and the effect with all of the lights was breathtaking. Not only did it fill the park, it was visible from various parts of the city, and as promised, the little specks of light reflected off of the cloudy sky - so we did get our starry night!

It was absolutely phenomenal, although my pictures/video don't do it justice.


So it was really tricky to fit both, but I'm pleased to say I managed to get both the disco ball and the Eiffel tower in this shot. WIN!



I tried to find details about the specific dimensions, but couldn't. At any rate, that little tiny white column at the bottom of this next shot has a larger than life statue of a person on top, it's down near the Luxembourg fountain. Look how it pales in comparison! At the bottom of this entry is a video of the exhibit to give you a slightly better idea of how it looked (again, chronologically challenged, what can I say)!



Today I went to the Marché aux Puces, or flea market, of Montreuil, which is my favorite one. I got there really early because I had afternoon plans, so they were in final stages of setting up and it wasn't too crowded, which was great! I found a battery recharger including four rechargeable batteries for 8€, and a cart thing (I think all French people have one) for wheeling groceries or whatever home for 10€, which I consider to be a success. I also priced out irons, since I need to buy one eventually... ugh. It was great to go back there though, it's huge and just so much fun. The only place in France you can find random stuff (bricolage) really inexpensively... Walmart would never make it here!

PS: Daddy, I was right next to the Carrefour, but I think I was on the loading dock side, so I couldn't figure out how to get in and was strapped for time. I'll investigate next time I'm at the market and report back.

After that, I had planned to go to the Prix de l'arc de Triomphe, which I'm told is something like their Kentucky Derby of horseracing, but I had forgotten that I had made plans to see my friend Emma when she got back from her conference in Lyon. So I had to bail on the horse race, but I went to lunch with Emma and her parents in Bercy village, which I think could be compared to the East Village in NYC. We were at a restaurant called Chai 33, and it was very good. I had the trois poissons hâchées, which is three kinds of fish chopped up finely into a ... well, mush. And raw. I'm fearless when it comes to eating though, and it was actually quite good! Whenever I'm with Emma's dad I let him advise my French food experience. He introduced me to oysters and various other things, so he hasn't let me down yet! Emma's mom is very good at explaining random things I don't understand too, and I loved seeing all of them again :)

On my way home this group was playing outside of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés church when I came out of the métro. I saw them play when I was last in France and bought the CD. I love them - it's traditional jazz; the group is called La Planche à Dixie (ironic, I know - I go to France and find a group that wants to imitate Dixieland ha). They're wonderful, if anyone wants to hear let me know and I'll email you my favorite song!



I also stopped at a bookstore on my way home to see if they had Père Goriot (Balzac), because Professor Coates told me it takes place in my quarter of Paris and that I simply must read it. While I was perusing the store, I found this book. Evidently "Where's Waldo?" translates to "Où est Charlie?" HAHAHAHA! Charlie? How is that more French than Waldo? Why not Etienne? Or Alexandre? Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat! Oh France. Anyway, I thought it was hilarious, and with barely repressed giggles snapped a shot. I so want this book.



Evidently videos ignore my order preferences too, so they're together at the bottom. The one with the disco ball is my attempt to capture the awesomeness of the Luxembourg installation (sorry it's sideways). The other video is of that street band of students I've previously mentioned. They were playing to a packed Place Saint Michel when I was heading home during the Nuit Blanche. When they started playing Queen "Don't Stop Me Now" I HAD to record some of it!



Going down Bd Saint-Germain there was a 20 second interval where it smelled just like fall at home, and the [smattering] of leaves on the sidewalk crunched, and I felt as though I had walked into a wall of homesick! So for the record, I miss all of you terribly :)

3 comments:

  1. Miss you too Molly. Really enjoying the photos and accounts!

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  2. Love the picture of you, the big disco ball and the itsy bitsy Eiffel Tower in the background.

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  3. DON'T STOP ME NOW = BEST SONG EVER! They were obviously channeling 3am production nights to remind you of home :) The food sounds a little terrifying, but still cool - any chance there's a picture of what three type of raw fish mush looks like? ;)

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