I haven't seen a single pumpkin, so this is the WORST autumn ever.

This has been rather a delay in my posting, and I'm not really sure why. I think it's just because spending all day chasing teachers around to firm up a teaching schedule is exhausting.

Whatever the reason, this week was excellent, in that I finally finished dealing with scheduling my "interventions" (makes me sound like a rehab counselor, doesn't it?!) on Thursday. Phew.

Wednesday I did nothing most of the morning, then decided to go wandering because it was sunny, though in the 40s and a bit chilly (screw you, metric). There is no elementary school on Wednesday, ever, which means I have a built in recovery day. I have all of my classes on Monday and Tuesday, with the exception of one repeat class on Friday afernoon (13h50, to be specific). This was my doing, because I can't have class Wednesday, I don't want class on Thursday (can you imagine teaching all day, then trying to survive a three hour orchestra rehearsal?), and well, there you have it.

Found this restaurant? bar? ... Priceless. I wonder if anyone has the faintest idea what it means. Probably not, but I laughed. It has a champagne store next to it (on the left), so I would contest the name. It can't be THAT bad if champagne is next door, right? Or is that just irony? Tough to say.



I wandered around the Théâtre de l'Odéon and the surrounding areas, eventually making my way to Gibert Jeune (bookstore) to buy Père Goriot (Balzac, Professor Coates recommended it because it takes place in the quarter where I live) AND a mini cookbook, filled with microwave masterpieces. I don't know how much longer I can subsist on bread and cheese and wine (though it may be quite awhile), so I figured it was time to take action. It's cool, because without and oven I thought my options were going to be a bit limited. Not according to this little book; I'm going to rule the kitchen in no time ... assuming I translate some of that cooking vocabulary that I never bothered to learn in English and figure out just what it's telling me to do. Take that, Julia Childs!

Thursday I went back to Aubervilliers to finish scheduling, had my face melted by Beethoven a tempo (holy CRAP the 6th symphony has some SERIOUS moments), and came back to meet my new neighbor! The family I'm renting from has a son a bit older than I am, Benoît, and his best friend Julien just moved into the big apartment they have that faces mine! It's really fun to have a neighbor that I can hang out with right there, so I'm content.

Friday I had no plans, so I slept late (I seem to have come down with a head cold ... not promising, since I'm about to spend a lot of time with a weak immune system and a TON of little kids) and tried to pull myself together. I'd hate to get the grippe A (what they call the swine flu, H1N1 or whatever it is).

By midafternoon I felt alright, so I decided to go investigate the rather famous American grocery store in the Marais, called Thanksgiving. Hannah bought me can of vanilla frosting for my birthday two years ago, so I had high hopes. I couldn't stop smiling while I was there -- it was so nice to see Saltines and Zatarains and peanut butter and even FLUFF! Things I'm accustomed to seeing in a grocery store! Unfortunately, it's all really, REALLY expensive. No way am I paying 5 euros for a box of Hamburger Helper!!! 7,50 for a small jar of peanut butter, so it looks like I'm going to hold out until someone comes to visit and imports some for me ;)

I did find Louisiana hot sauce (no Frank's there, bummer), which tastes just like Frank's. It says "One drop is enough" on the label, but clearly they've never met me.



While I was in the Marais, I wandered along Rue St Anthony, and stopped to look in the window of NICOLAS, which is a "cave" or wine cellar store. They had this wine advertised in the window ... It's from Asti, Italy, which is where my dad's family came from. It's also a moscato, the sweet dessert wine that I had actually been craving. Took this as a sign and bought a bottle. It's delicious. You can kind of see the bottle of hot sauce behind it. Sorry, I'm SO not an artsy photographer ... although this particular still life has wine, bread, and hot sauce. Good enough.



Next on my food tour, I stopped in a G20 grocery store (always sounds political when I see it) and was delighted to discover that they had cheddar! Wasn't sure whether English cheddar was different from Vermont cheddar (in my opinion, it's not), but I figured "Pilgrim's Choice" sounded promising. It was wonderful to have a non-soft cheese, though I do love all cheese. Except limberger, which is disgusting.



Last night I hung out with Julien and his friend Iris, it was really great to relax and get to know people better. I definitely feel like my French sounds better with this cold, so that was a plus :)

Orchestra this morning went fairly well, although at the end my sectional leader, Diana, told me to get well soon, so I must not look so hot (or perhaps it was my sniffling that tipped her off).

I spent the afternoon brainstorming next week's lessons and practicing the violin. I realized that my concert, on the 19th of November, is in St. Louis des Invalides ... which I only just realized means the chapel of Invalides. Yes, THE Invalides (Army Museum, tomb of Napoleon, etc). Gulp. Suddenly the conductor talking about important people being at our concert makes more sense.

"It's good to be the King."

Riddle me this, M C Escher ... Is this a real building? I noticed it this morning at DAWN, while I was mistakenly ringing the doorbell of 8 Avenue de la République instead of 6 Avenue de la République for my 8am meeting with the Inspection Nationale in Aubervilliers.

I walked out into traffic because I had to see whether or not my life was actually the Truman show. Turns out the building is wedge shaped, but from this angle it really was tripping me out!



Let me back up and explain the series of events that brought me to this cracked out, bleary eyed and conspiracy-oriented state:

Yesterday I spent my first full day at Firmin Gémier, still observing. I spent the morning with one teacher and the afternoon with another, and realized the true difference between French elementary schools and their American counterparts: French kids use pens, and have 12 recesses. OK not twelve, but at least two. Also, their teachers teach everything ... including gym. Fear not, that just ruled me out of a staying in France forever as a teacher, because there is NOTHING that will make me teach a gym class. Ever.

Yesterday afternoon the Inspection Nationale (so, my teacher-advisor) called to tell me I've finally had my school placements approved. I spend 6 hours per week at Firmin Gémier, and three hours a piece at each Victor Hugo and Balzac (which are really actually connected, and thus in my mind are really only one school). YAY!!!

Today I went to Aubervilliers to [finally] sign my Procès Verbal d'Installation ... cough, contract. And officially take up my post. Again. Anyway, now I am in the process of talking to all of the teachers at the various schools and working out a teaching schedule.

Theoretically I would see one class twice a week ... but that's seeming strictly theoretical, because they want to share me with as many teachers and students as they can (which really seems only fair). At this particular moment, it looks like I'm going to have 13 different classes. !@#%#&@!!! It can't be that bad though, it's only four different grades, so I can't imagine that the level will be too scattered. The older CM2 kids (fourth grade) take a national assessment, so a good deal of my material will be targeted at that. Whatever, I'm used to being busy :)

Today, after my meeting with the Inspection Nationale, I went to observe at one of my newly announced schools, Balzac. I liked the teachers, and even got to visit a music class with one! While they had lunch I ran back to Firmin Gémier to try and work out my schedule, and when I got there was the highlight of today. I came at the school from a weird back entrance that was locked, but from about 20 yards down the driveway I heard little voices saying "'Ello!" and I figured I had been spotted. One of the little girls let me in through a back door, so needless to say, I think I have made the proper inside connections at Firmin Gémier!

When I was leaving a group of students asked me if I saw "Stahrs" (like, famous stars) walking in the streets, or if I had been to Hollywood or had met Michael Jackson ever. Priceless, but not as priceless as when they informed me that I look like an American "stahr" too. I told them yes, and that I'm practically a goddess in the US, and there are many temples in my honor. Next I'll be demanding tributes, or sacrifices ... or both. I can't be held responsible for my ego now that I'm a rockstar! Instead of one of those "I'm huge in Japan" shirts I want one that says "I'm a folk hero in France!"

Other great moment of the day was on my way back to Balzac this afternoon after crashing FG, I kept thinking I heard my name being yelled as I walked down the street, but of course I ignored it, because really, who could I possibly know that would be yelling my name in the streets of Aubervilliers? At the last corner where you turn to enter Balzac and Victor Hugo, I discovered that a kid from one of the classes I was observing this morning had chased me more or less all the way down the street yelling my name. It was so sweet, this boy in third or fourth grade made such an effort just to talk to me a little bit! Of course, the one time where I don't look, because I'm positive that I'm just imagining things ...

Love being with kids, but I went to bed at 1030 pm last night after my first full day of observing. That should make things interesting! I'm going back to Victor Hugo on Thursday to meet the teachers with whom I'll be working and straighten out a schedule. The director is very nice, and funny. In fact, I really like all of the directors and teachers -- I feel pretty lucky to feel so welcome, and it's nice to know that they're happy to have my help!

Had another orientation session this afternoon ... nothing too interesting there, except meeting the other two assistants in Aubervilliers 1 with me. Contemplating going exploring together in Aubervilliers to see what it has to offer, besides the 1€50 store!

I'm sorry, can I get a date check? What, did you say 2009? OK, just making sure.

This weekend ending up being busy, almost in spite of my best intentions. I got off to an early start with orchestra rehearsal on Saturday morning, and just really couldn't seem to snap myself out of the haze.

After that I quickly did some grocery shopping, and headed to Montmartre and the Mairie of the XVIIIe to meet up with my friend Francesca (from the foyer back in the day) for the Fête des Vendanges. That would be the festival of the grape harvest, in case you wondered. Yes, I went to a festival celebrating one of my favorite things: Wine.

This is the Mairie of the XVIIIe, and right in front of it was the podium where the Mayor of the arrondissemnt and the Mayor of Paris and their respective entourages were observing. I opted to cut them out and get more of the building instead :)



The parade was really long, and had groups from tons of different vineyards, as well as crazy costumes, music groups and dancers. The various groups were handing out wine samples and grapes from their harvest! I got these ones early on. Very tasty.



These next few pictures are to give you an idea of the costumes and stuff. Lots of groups carrying banners and wearing robes.



Lots of traditional costumes helped me place the various vineyards on a map. You could see the German and Italian influences pretty quickly for some of the groups.



This group came through not long after I had seen a band of men and women in hot pink shirts, one guy with zebra accoutrements. Yikes. Also, saw my first male flag wavers. Yikes.



We decided to see what else the festival had to offer, so we meandered up to Sacre Coeur. We didn't really know where we were, but luckily, it wasn't too hard to pick it out amidst the other buildings ...



We came at it from the wrong side though, I don't think I've ever climbed up from the back stairs like this.



It was jam packed ... you literally couldn't move. Both sides of the church and the whole front were packed with little market stalls with wine on sale and tons of different regional goodies from all over France, AND even Canada! Those French-Canadians! This is the view out over the city from the front. Despite ominious clouds during some parts of the parade, it ended up being a beautiful day!



Just had to get a shot of this ... Really? Could it GET less French?



Then I headed home in the most tightly packed métro I think I have ever experienced -- you know, the kind where people fling themselves at the crowd as the buzzer signals the doors closing and hope for the best? I'd be alright with never going through that again.

Then later on it was Girls' Night at Ophélie's house, or as she more accurately named it, Promotion 2007, 5th floor (Although Ophélie lived on the 7th and Colline lived on the 3rd, Sarah and I lived on the 5th and we took the average)-- we had all lived together in my old dorm on Bd Saint-Michel back in the day. We ate a lot and had a blast goofing around, and then were talked into going to a bar at Pigalle by Ophélie's friend Carmen.

May I take this moment to reiterate how ridiculous dancing in France is? Or music? All of the music at this place, O'Sullivans, was stuff I loved back in ... oh, 5th grade? Old rap, old pop, the typical amount of Michael Jackson. Geeeeeeeeeeeeeez. And the guys that were dancing thought they were the dancing queens. I could hardly hold back gales of laughter. Disco moves are alive and well in France.

And then my gaydar exploded.

Today was uneventful; hit the flea market early for some much needed apartment things, then came home and tried to focus on productive things ... and clearly failed.

Well, that was probably my last miracle.

The uncle, who's one of the owners of the apartment I'm renting, HAPPENED to come through town last night ... so around 11pm he knocked on my door to introduce himself (we'd spoken on the phone extensively during my electricity debacle). Not only was it nice to put a face to the name, GUESS WHO RESET THE MODEM FOR ME! So miraculously, my internet was saved! Now I just have to make it another week without further problems until the new renter moves in! Phew.

Anyway, just a few things to touch on. Yesterday, during my Louvre adventure, I saw this ad. I just re-found it while uploading a few pictures from today. I'm primarily directing all of the snide commentary in my head at Dave, but it can go for everyone who <3s their Apple products. In case you had been anxiously awaiting, there will soon be an Apple store in the Carrousel du Louvre (the part of the Louvre that has some ritzy boutiques and stuff, near the inverted pyramid entrance). Gross.



This absolutely required documentation. This is Disney's Princess Dreams ON ICE! The ads in the metros have really been stellar in the last few days ... I found out about the Salon du Chocolat (read: Chocolate Festival, uh, yes), and Disney on Ice, and a Jazz Manouche concert series (this is Django music). Scooooooooooooore! Also that kid's movie G-Force with the rodent-hamster-gerbils is coming out in France now ... they call it Mission-G. There were others, but I've forgotten them.



Went to school this morning -- I really liked the CM1 (third grade) teacher that I observed today. She was really nice and asked me about a bunch of things. She and the other teachers seem relieved that I'm there, and very hopeful that I'll be helping them . I think they're all forced to teach English, and I get the impression they're not too comfortable with it ... hence their gratitude for my presence!

During the kids' second recess (yeah, they get TWO), I became a true celebrity. A huge circle of kids formed in front of me while some girls taught me handclapping games. Can't do the words, but I've got the motions down. Then they all wanted to talk to me and gather round. The cutest part was when I was leaving: Several of the insisted that I "faire la bise" with them (the French cheek-kissing) on my way out. Adorable. I really, REALLY hope I get to spend a lot of time in this school -- they seem both genuinely happy to have me and very helpful!

Which brings me to the next part of my day ... orientation round two. Not too exciting, but my instructor will hopefully get to the bottom of me not having my specific school schedule yet. The meeting my teacher-advisor had this morning was coopted by discussions of the spreading flu, so they're to meet Monday morning and then tell me what I'm doing with my life.

Orchestra again tomorrow morning ... too many early mornings! What's more, this one is a sectional. Oh nooooooooo, I knew I meant to practice more this week! FAIL.

The Dark Ages, yet again.

Quickly, since my internet trial in this random library at the Mairie of the 1e arrondissement is limited ...

Monday: Made my first croque madame! That, for those of you who haven’t experienced it, is merely a grilled cheese with an egg on top. I think the French put eggs and ham on EVERYTHING. Everything, I tell you! Anyway, I think it came out quite well … I mean, I know how to make grilled cheese, and I know how to make a fried egg, so this was no test of my skills, really.

After that, I worked on some wine … and my personal statement. In no particular order. I finished up a rough draft to impose on my unwitting editors (incidentally, thanks). One potential essay down, who knows how many to go.

Tuesday: Nothing too interesting to report, mostly wasted the day on uneventful activities. I did, however, feel it necessary to take a picture of this store’s display … apparently 7 years or so later, they think they can bring Uggs to France. God help us all.

Wednesday: Lost my patience with the lack of internet chez moi, so I decided to make sure that it was really the network and not my computer having a moment. I tried it in a café and found that it STILL didn’t work, and that’s when I got nervous. I next went to my old dorm (foyer). I installed myself in the library, where I connected to the wireless sans problem until midafternoon, when the Nazi librarian booted me out because I lived there too long ago to be allowed in the library. Why are librarians always terrible people?! Getting a degree in library science must just tear out your soul, that’s the only explanation I can think of.

When I went down to the main desk to chat with the people who work in the foyer before I left, I discovered that my friend Sophia who used to live in the foyer with me is now one of the people at the front desk! AND, even better, my friend Sarah, who lived next door to me, showed up to return library books and visit!!! Perfect!

After we hung out and talked (our other friend Colline joined us) for quite a while, I walked to Sarah’s new apartment to check it out. She has a balcony (lucky!!!) that looks in on a huge, beautiful courtyard. We had tea and cookies and hung out for awhile, and then I headed out on my next errand: The Arc de Triomphe.

This requires some explanation. As per Molly Clark’s request, I went with the express purpose of bringing back a picture, so that she could see the real Arc, to go with the print that the Clarks have in their house. I arrived just before it got too dark to come out well, and had some of the bajillion (yes, bajillion) other tourists take a picture of me with the tower. It was really humid today (Lourde, or “heavy” as they say), so I was just about melting, but fortunately the picture came out more or less OK … certainly well enough for little Molly to be able to see the real thing!

Spent the rest of the evening writing an essay about my goals and my academic background for Penn State. Blergh. I can’t wait to be finished with these applications, I can’t take all this serious writing, I’m going nuts!

Maybe that's just the lack of internet access talking.

Today I went to foyer for a bit of internet bonding time, then to the bank (still don't have my bank card, ugh) and then adventuring. I cruised to the Louvre and got my Carte Jeune subscription, which means I get to go anytime I want any day I want all year :) And it's only 15 euros! By cruised I mean to say that I waited in a line that was at a standstill for close to an hour in order to get my card. Then I headed to a library near the Louvre, in the Mairie of the 1e arrondissement for the wireless hotspot :) Now I'm headed home to eat dinner and go to orchestra!

Post-modern meets retro-revival, and does a little dance?

I daresay I should preface the events that follow by explaining that Paris has a big event, called a Nuit Blanche (an all-nighter, if you will). Lots of businesses stay open late, and there are art installations and performances that stay open until 7am. It was packed. I didn't stay long, because after what had transpired at the Luxembourg Gardens, my mind was blown and I needed to recover!

On my way over to the Luxembourg gardens, where the event I wanted to see was set up, I took the métro from Saint-Germain des Prés, which you see here. This is a few blocks down Bd. Saint Germain, which is the main boulevard close to me. I take the métro from here all the time, it's very convenient. More on this area later on.



This is the Sorbonne. I walked up Bd. Saint Michel (where I used to live) to get to the gardens. That is actually the Grand Amphithéâtre where I had/will have orchestra concerts (if memory serves).



Evidently I lack skill, because these were supposed to be at the end, but I thought this was possibly the best bookstore name I've ever seen. It's a spoof on Mona Lisa and a form of the verb lire, which is "to read."



Got pot[s]? Hahaha this is a restaurant that I always liked near the Place Saint Michel, on Rue Danton, which connects the Place Saint Michel back to Odéon and Bd. Saint Germain.



I figured perhaps there have been too many pictures of inanimate objects, so I myspaced it up for this one ... and did pretty well, I must say. You can see the boule à facettes (disco ball) AND on the left side of my face right about ear level is the Eiffel tower! I'm just that good :)

I suppose now is as good a point in my non-chronological pictures to explain as any. This particular installation was billed as the artist's effort to bring a starry night sky to the city, since in cities you can't usually see the stars. What I didn't realize from the information I had read was that they were going to string up an ENORMOUS (the brochure says it's the largest in the world, and I can't imagine they're wrong) disco ball, ON A CRANE, in the middle of the Luxembourg gardens ... which, incidentally, houses the Palais du Luxembourg, which is their Senate. They had DCA projector lights strategically placed all around to illuminate it, and the effect with all of the lights was breathtaking. Not only did it fill the park, it was visible from various parts of the city, and as promised, the little specks of light reflected off of the cloudy sky - so we did get our starry night!

It was absolutely phenomenal, although my pictures/video don't do it justice.


So it was really tricky to fit both, but I'm pleased to say I managed to get both the disco ball and the Eiffel tower in this shot. WIN!



I tried to find details about the specific dimensions, but couldn't. At any rate, that little tiny white column at the bottom of this next shot has a larger than life statue of a person on top, it's down near the Luxembourg fountain. Look how it pales in comparison! At the bottom of this entry is a video of the exhibit to give you a slightly better idea of how it looked (again, chronologically challenged, what can I say)!



Today I went to the Marché aux Puces, or flea market, of Montreuil, which is my favorite one. I got there really early because I had afternoon plans, so they were in final stages of setting up and it wasn't too crowded, which was great! I found a battery recharger including four rechargeable batteries for 8€, and a cart thing (I think all French people have one) for wheeling groceries or whatever home for 10€, which I consider to be a success. I also priced out irons, since I need to buy one eventually... ugh. It was great to go back there though, it's huge and just so much fun. The only place in France you can find random stuff (bricolage) really inexpensively... Walmart would never make it here!

PS: Daddy, I was right next to the Carrefour, but I think I was on the loading dock side, so I couldn't figure out how to get in and was strapped for time. I'll investigate next time I'm at the market and report back.

After that, I had planned to go to the Prix de l'arc de Triomphe, which I'm told is something like their Kentucky Derby of horseracing, but I had forgotten that I had made plans to see my friend Emma when she got back from her conference in Lyon. So I had to bail on the horse race, but I went to lunch with Emma and her parents in Bercy village, which I think could be compared to the East Village in NYC. We were at a restaurant called Chai 33, and it was very good. I had the trois poissons hâchées, which is three kinds of fish chopped up finely into a ... well, mush. And raw. I'm fearless when it comes to eating though, and it was actually quite good! Whenever I'm with Emma's dad I let him advise my French food experience. He introduced me to oysters and various other things, so he hasn't let me down yet! Emma's mom is very good at explaining random things I don't understand too, and I loved seeing all of them again :)

On my way home this group was playing outside of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés church when I came out of the métro. I saw them play when I was last in France and bought the CD. I love them - it's traditional jazz; the group is called La Planche à Dixie (ironic, I know - I go to France and find a group that wants to imitate Dixieland ha). They're wonderful, if anyone wants to hear let me know and I'll email you my favorite song!



I also stopped at a bookstore on my way home to see if they had Père Goriot (Balzac), because Professor Coates told me it takes place in my quarter of Paris and that I simply must read it. While I was perusing the store, I found this book. Evidently "Where's Waldo?" translates to "Où est Charlie?" HAHAHAHA! Charlie? How is that more French than Waldo? Why not Etienne? Or Alexandre? Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat! Oh France. Anyway, I thought it was hilarious, and with barely repressed giggles snapped a shot. I so want this book.



Evidently videos ignore my order preferences too, so they're together at the bottom. The one with the disco ball is my attempt to capture the awesomeness of the Luxembourg installation (sorry it's sideways). The other video is of that street band of students I've previously mentioned. They were playing to a packed Place Saint Michel when I was heading home during the Nuit Blanche. When they started playing Queen "Don't Stop Me Now" I HAD to record some of it!



Going down Bd Saint-Germain there was a 20 second interval where it smelled just like fall at home, and the [smattering] of leaves on the sidewalk crunched, and I felt as though I had walked into a wall of homesick! So for the record, I miss all of you terribly :)

Arrêtez de massacrer ...

So yesterday and today have been more or less uneventful, because I can't do anything until my teacher-advisor-counselor calls me and tells me which schools I've been placed in. To occupy myself I've been starting blankly at Graduate School applications and praying to the orchestra gods that I survive rehearsals!

Speaking of orchestra, Thursday's rehearsal went well, although it was divided into sectionals ... and not the strings/winds variety, but rather the firsts/seconds/violas/cellos/winds variety. Ugh, my least favorite, because there's no faking it when there are only 15 people or so and the section professor is staring you down! I'm in the second violins, and my professor is Diana Cazabbas or something like that. She's incredibly talented, and you can tell when you watch her just by how graceful she makes it look. Gives me something to aspire to, that's for sure!

Rehearsals are always exhausting though, because I can't let my mind wander for even a minute or I'll be totally lost. It's not entirely my fault -- the French music terminology bears no resemblance to the American. Notably, they use solfege instead of letters to describe the notes. AHHHHHHHH! And for once American English is the most logical, as we say things like quarter notes, eighth notes, sixteenth notes, and French uses things like croches and noirs and blancs. Gross. I forgot how hard it really is, but it's worth it, I love being able to play.

This morning I went to see my friend Emma near Gare de Lyon (she was on her way to Lyon for a sustainable development conference). She has been my pen pal since the very first French class I took at Binghamton, when my teacher made us sign up on some website. She's a year older than I am, and she worked as a French assistant in Germany for awhile, not unlike what I'm doing now! Her family lives an hour-ish outside of Paris, and when I came to visit last time they invited me to stay with them, which was wonderful!

On the way to meet I saw this ad in the metro; it's one of my favorites. It might be a bit difficult to read, but in the little box on the bottom part it says "Arrêtez de massacrer l'anglais!" ("Stop massacring English!") which follows in its general theme with the guy looking all busted up. I've seen it before, and it always cracks me up.



This is part of Gare de Lyon, it's a train station in the Southeast quadrant of Paris. I think it's one of the prettiest ones (of course Orsay is now a museum, so I guess there's some stiff competition)!



So hopefully next week I can go pick up my European credit card (woohooooo!), which they had said would be ready today but wasn't, and I'll be told which schools I'm working in, and I can start my observations! If I'm lucky of course. Orchestra rehearsal again tomorrow morning, so hopefully I get to bed at a reasonable hour tonight ... ish.