HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Last night I stopped in the grocery store to pick up a few last minute things (cheddar cheese for macaroni and cheese, sugar and a spatula for pancakes) and I came across the HOLY GRAIL of grocery store aisles : FOREIGN FOODS.

Apparently Bran flakes, grape-nuts, kettle chips and Hellman's mayonnaise are British. Who knew?

Then I saw these. I thought they were mythical, but apparently somebody is still buying them. Crazy Brits.

HI AMERIKA. Please note, apparently we have Aunt Jemima pancakes, syrup, peanut butter, and then two full rows of the chunk cookies. Excellent.

They also had mini marshmallows, so I opted for a pack of those.

The reason for all of this shopping right before I leave the country for ten days is actually quite simple : I'm hosting my first Christmas Eve party :) A few friends from orchestra are coming over, we're all celebrating together and attempting to stay up all night, so as to better sleep on the plane (12 hours of plane time, plus another 5 of bus once we get there). This could be rough.

To at least take advantage of being in France for the holidays a LITTLE bit, I ordered a Bûche de Noël at the boulangerie nearby. If you can't tell, Santa is serenading us. So cute. And chocolatey. Yum.

And then, if all goes well, early tomorrow morning we're off to the airport en masse -- My flight details are available here if you get curious ...

I'll try to get on someone's computer while we're there, just to check in (I'm not bringing mine and I'm not going to use my Blackberry because my phone bill would be ASTRONOMICAL), but otherwise I'll be back on January 5th and OF COURSE I'll be posting pictures and stories ...

You can try to follow us a little on the Musique en Sorbonne site as well -- They say they'll be trying to post updates and pictures (if you watch the slideshow that's already up and running you'll see me!).

Love to all of you, I hope you have a wonderful holiday season and best wishes for the new year!

To be continued ... In 2011!

Hello, weeks. Where did you go?

So I'm not really sure how it's suddenly December 22nd, but my clocks all seem to confirm this. I guess the stress of worrying about whether or not I'd be going to China distracted me quite a bit! And for the record, I'M GOING! I went and picked up my passport, complete with visa, on Monday afternoon.

We fly out on SATURDAY. About that packing ...

As a result things have been a bit crazy. I've been going out with friends quite a bit, and last weekend was our pre-concert "week-end de travail." Incidentally, a major national French TV network, TF1, came and filmed us. Whom, do you suppose, just happened to be sitting first stand at that particular moment? THIS GIRL. The guy came to the center (next to the conductor) with an ENORMOUS video camera, and basically pointed it at me. I was just like "Uhhhhhhh, is it too late to move? Can I just smile?" Apparently a crew is going to film our first concerts in China as well, and some sort of report on us will be on TF1 either December 30th or 31st. SNAP. So I've been on communist Chinese television, and French television ... Have I ever even been on American TV? I think not ...

Here are some goofy shots with the boys ... I let them be the photographers for once. They were amused, but unfortunately it's hard to get everyone to hold still, and the Blackberry camera really demands immobility.

Maxime had a light-up martini glass that he was playing with, it's not that I'm trying to hide his radioactive ear or something :)

Saw this stamped on the street as I was cutting over to Rue de Lancry ... Do you suppose they mean some sort of play on "one another," or someone just messed up, or completely unrelated? Tough to say.

Monday morning. Snowy. I was unaware that according to the news media everything is a mess and the airports aren't working, etc. As snowy as this looks, there was no trace of it by 3pm that afternoon. Thanks for exaggerating EVERYTHING, news media. Granted, while the snow is there everything falls apart (it's as if they've never considered the possibility that snow would DARE fall on Paris).

Just after this, however, I did see a man squeegeeing the sidewalk. Seriously? SERIOUSLY?

Snowflakes!

Just the other day I got a letter from Potter and Molly (and Lin, by default?), and included were some snowflakes they had made me. These are ESSENTIAL to my winter decoration theme, so of course I have to document!

I love them ... Top left is from Molly, bottom left is from Julien, and the one on the right is from Potter. Scattered around them are snowflakes Lin sent me for Christmas last year :)

In theory a few of my friends and I will be celebrating Christmas Eve together here, since the idea is for all of us to herd each other to the airport on the 25th for orchestra's tour in China. Think me happy thoughts for my visa, please!

I could have danced all night

It was a busy weekend, full of the typical Parisian shenanigans. We had what felt like a heat wave, but upon further reflection was merely the 40s, which made going outside way easier on the layering process.

Saturday morning was a less-than-awesome orchestra rehearsal (between the cramped room and the high temperatures, the handwritten illegible music was the icing on the cake of my giggle fit).

Afterwards Guillaume and I went to our favorite café in the 18e, Chez Francis. Mmmm, went all out since we were starving (I had a steak and he had a burger, followed by an AWESOME lava cake with some sort of not sweet but creamy awesome sauce).

Sunday I tutored in the morning (rough wake-up call), then met Betsey for a flea market date. Couldn't resist buying a ton of pretty scarves ... And finally indulged in the pretty olive green Converse I've been coveting for months. They seem to be getting increasingly hard to find, so I figured it was going to be now or never.

I'm more the now type.

Then Betsey and I grabbed an afternoon hot chocolate on the Rue de Rivoli before heading toward the Opéra. We found this neat English/American bookstore. For Meg and Gennie and my my mom - little tins for making babas au rhum. It made me smile :)

As I walked up to catch the métro, the sun just happened to, you know, glance brilliantly off the Opéra's golden trimmings. No big deal.

Last night I went to see My Fair Lady at the Théâtre de Châtelet. [That's where I saw A Little Night Music last year, and where I'm seeing Sweeney Todd in the spring.]

The sets were beautiful, as were the costumes, and the show was wonderful. I didn't love the singing voice of the woman playing Eliza, but it was a great show. I'm almost tempted to go back ... I don't think I'll have the time though. The show was in English, with French subtitles playing, which was hilarious, since they didn't seem to do to much to demonstrate the extreme accents that make it so funny for anglophones. They did a little bit, but not nearly to the same degree.

Anyway I had a great time, and the man that played Freddie had one of the most phenomenal voices I've ever heard. I've never given 'On the street where you live' a second thought, until last night's rendition. It was also funny because there are a few choice references to the French, which were well-received by the primarily French crowd.

Stressed and tired in general, but trying to keep breathing. At a normal speed. Not into a paper bag.

Oops.

Mystery solved; apparently my mom had told me NOT TO OPEN the Christmas present she had ordered me.

Fail.

My life is the stuff of bestsellers.

Wednesday's concert was Schubert, Rachmaninov and Strauss. I decided I really like Strauss during the Chevalier à la rose (no clue by what name we know that in English) suite for orchestra, when I got that feeling that only classical music gives me ; The one where the whole universe comes together for just a second.

But first, I should say that yesterday (Wednesday) it snowed like I've never seen it snow in Paris. Ever. It snowed giant flakes from 11am until 6pm. I didn't take it that seriously until we went out again at 3pm, since I presumed that it wouldn't stick. FALSE. This is near the kids' art class ... I MAY have instigated a snowball fight. We had a blast, but we were soaked ... My poor suede boots weren't made for this. Totally worth it, especially with the victory hot chocolate post-battle.

Had to snap a picture of the motorcycles. It made me laugh (I'd like to say on the inside, but I seem to remember a maniacal giggle finding voice just the same).

And finally, street view of Rue des Belles Feuilles as I left at 7pm. I didn't see a single shovel or plow until this morning, when the street cleaners that usually hose the sidewalks were out with small shovels and salt looking rather baffled by the turn of events. I guess a culture that can't handle picking up dog poop is probably not prepared to deal with snow. At any rate, this made for some impressive slush-ice (the WORST) on the sidewalks and in the streets.

A certain someone you know may POSSIBLY have slipped and fallen while attempting to Tweet (I've become one of them, God help us) and walk. Oops. Nothing hurt except my pride. On the other hand, given the quality of the roads and the fact that I didn't come to Paris outfitted for any real winter, I can HARDLY be held responsible. I have instituted a no-phone-while-walking rule though. At least until the sidewalks are more walkable.

Happened to walk by this during my waiting-for-the-laundry-to-finish stroll. Entrance clearly marked for Douches. I know a few, I'll send them along ...

(Public showers. Not nearly as fun as my alternate interpretation, I know.)

Cool gun-dragon-snake graffiti, near the douche entrance.

This morning I did a load of laundry, grocery-shopped (both of those for the first time in almost three weeks, OOPS) and even turned in all of my visa paperwork to the agency I'm paying to handle my Chinese stuff.

Cross your fingers.

As of now I have the afternoon wide open. I'd love to go wander the streets since it's sunny and nice out, but with the sidewalks being icy deathtraps, I probably won't. I'm not ready to meet such an inglorious end. For the time being I'll stay in with coffee and books, WHICH REMINDS ME: What mystery person has had 'The Crimes of Paris' mailed to me from Amazon.fr via a London-based bookstore?!

Baffled. Today has been thoroughly epic.

Laundry Day.

Laundromat, 10am, a Thursday in December.

Alone.

Enter man, gesturing frantically at safety pin and saying something (thick, unintelligible accent) about his pants and not letting anyone come in.

Realization: He's saying the zipper broke (and you pray he isn't asking for your help). Pants situation regulated, man asks where you're from. You tell him you're American. He instantly becomes overjoyed, gives you a big kiss on the cheek, and informs you that his ex-girlfriend is from Mexico. Lived here since 2007.

I swear, I couldn't make this stuff up if I dropped acid.

Let the games begin!

This past weekend my friend Charlotte came to Paris for a visit (she's in Strasbourg now), and she brought us real 'pain d'épices' or 'gingerbread,' as they translated it. It contained none of the ingredients I consider integral to gingerbread, but it was tasty. I killed the bag last night. Oops.

On Sunday, Charlotte and I went to Belleville for ravioli soup. Don't be put off by the name, it's the super Chinese part of town (although typically this isn't where you'd think of), and this was Chinese ravioli soup. Delicious, and CHEAP. Looks like I found my new substitute Chinese-American food ...

This random building had 1984 spraypainted on it ... Reminds me of that mailbox near Chez Prune last year. Another conspiracy?! If so, it's not very subtle.

EMMA WRIGHT, THIS IS DESTINY. They had a giant advertisement in the window for Bubble tea, and I stopped dead in my tracks.

Then Charlotte and I stopped in some random store packed with oddities. The top says "Sacred bonds of marriage," and then "Together for life." I'm praying that this is meant ironically. Please, please, tell me this is intended as a gag gift. I wish the packaging made the "joke" more evident.

Resisted the temptation to buy this. For the time being anyway ... I can always go back.

Before meeting up with friends in an Irish pub for hot chocolates (I know, it blew my mind too), we did a run-through of H&M. Found this "creation" (their word, not mine, but I find it surprisingly accurate). Know what that pricetag says?

199€.

No, I did not accidentally type a second 9. You read it correctly. 199€, for a dress that looks like the one the fairies make in Sleeping Beauty, before they decide that they're too incompetent to do anything without magic. I would love to see the cashier ring someone up with one. How could ANYONE keep a straight face?

I went to two different concerts at the Salle Pleyel this week (Monday and Wednesday nights). Monday was the Tchaikovsky Symphony Orchestra, and I fell in love with a second violinist. Unfortunately I was in the third row, and I think he saw me staring at him. FORGOT THEY CAN SEE YOU IN THE THIRD ROW. Oh right, and he's Russian. SEE YA.

On the way home I peered down the Champs Elysées. Not sure why I went home this way, in a moment of disorientation I chose the incorrect 'fastest route home.' The blaze of light in the middle-ish is the giant ferris wheel at the other end (Concorde). The lights on the trees look really pretty.

Going negative.

Temperature, that is. In Celsius. Not as cold as Fahrenheit, but I've got to tell you, -2°C still feels pretty freaking cold.

Yesterday morning I was pleased to discover this on the street as I left ...

And went up to the COUPs (Choeur et Orchestre de l'Université de Paris) office at Porte de Clignancourt.

It was super slippery (something like skidding up and down that killer hill to Hillside in the winter, for those of you that can appreciate the analogy).

This looked pretty legit, but I assure you that it has probably all melted by now. Nevertheless, we've had flurries on and off all week, and it has been staying right around 0°C or lower. Today's high is -3 and the low is -6. I miss the nuance of Fahrenheit.

Last night I got to see the final dress rehearsal of La Fiancée Vendue, an opera by Smetana. At the the Opéra Garnier. Holy CRAP it is fancy. Loved it, even though I was exhausted.

November 30th: Bruch, Mendelssohn and Schumann

Our concert Tuesday night went fairly well ... Not our best work in my opinion, but it was a long and difficult program, so at some point you just have to be happy that you survived! We played Romance for Viola by Bruch, Ouverture and Incidental Music from Mendelssohn's 'A Midsummer Night's Dream' (If you didn't know, one of the numbers is The Wedding March) and finally Ballade der Königssohn (not sure what that one is in English, something about the King's son).

I tried to be proactive about getting lots of pictures ... Semi-success, the bulk of them are on Facebook :)

My friend Sibylle is a violist, the second violins and the violas are pretty much partners in crime at this point ...

Somebody had a friend in the audience with a good camera, because guess who we can see QUITE clearly: Front row, all the way to the left. Oh hi.

Bigger shot, although it's during the Mendelssohn, and that's only the women's choir (and it's a bit cut off; you can't even see the basses).

Naturally the bulk of us relocated to L'Ecritoire as per tradition -- That's a café/bar in the Place de la Sorbonne just a little ways up the street. I caught pretty much the last trains to get home. Turns out that the downside to my new location is an inability to go home on foot whenever I so desire. Drat.

Molière was a funny guy

Last night Betsey hit the Petit Bureau line at the Comédie Française in order to get us last-minute, limited visibility tickets (for 5€, limit away!) to see L'avare. I may have already blogged about this, because I saw the exact same thing with friends last spring ... But you can never go wrong with a) Molière or b)La Comédie Française .

Just my BFF, Molière. No big deal. He's not nearly as bored as he's making himself out to be, he was just trying to outclass me for the picture (jealous because Molly is better than Molière).

Betsey and I were liberal with our picture taking -- I don't think I ever bothered to get any before, so it's a good thing we went for it :)

I should mention that it snowed (lightly, small flakes) all afternoon and into the evening, so metal surfaces had a nice little dusted look to them. I was loving it. Look at this car, I could practically be back in Manlius! Except evidently you guys are experiencing a monsoon. Flooding in NY, snow in Paris? Somebody missed the memo.

Apparently some of the snow even stuck to the street! It's pretty cold out, it's been in the 20s (aka low negatives in Celsius, everyone is frozen).